So a postponed cycle in the Izu. Up at 6.45, at Numazu by 8.30, en velo by 8.45.
A few kilometres on busy roads until I could get off them and follow the coast-road on the Izu. Only incident was seeing a keirin-racer training on his way home. As soon as I pull off onto the quieter roads the view of Fuji across Suruga Bay is stunning. The air still clear from the passed typhoon. A thin topping of snow. Blue skies.
I passed out on Friday after having blood taken so I thought I'd take it easy. Slowly following the road, watching the sun bouncing off the waves. There are several little harbour-towns along the coast, smells of fish, seaweed, and petrol. Water clear. After an hour or so I pull off and wander up to an observation point - a stoic samurai sits in stone - must be his favourite view. He's not very talkative. Shortly after that, at the top of a hill, I pull off again to a little isolated cafe on the side of the cliff. Order up some earl-grey and cheese-cake. This is the way to do it. The owner seems a little shocked to see a whitey, but brings out a book of incredible diving-photography locally produced; the area is apparently famous for it's diving school. As I leave he passes me two postcards by the same photographer.
On the way out after filling my water-bottle there are four very sweaty young guys gasping for air. They're real excited, must be a first big bike-trip. I ask them where they started; Numazu, same as me. They seem keen to talk and ask how difficult I thought this last hill was. "Ma-ma" - so-so I say, they shriek with amazement - wow, you a level-up to us! I watch them set off while I clear some mud from the clips in my shoes. Then I set off again, catch up to them instantly and pass them up the remainder of the hill - "Ganbarre!" I encourage them; fun to see guys so excited about everything.
At the top the light opens up and another incredible view of Fuij. I don't stop, there's a beautiful downhill. 60kmph all the way down, racing round the corners. Another climb, taking it slowly I pause to look at the view point at the top of the other side. It must be the spot Hiroshige picked for one of his prints. As I'm taking it in the guys go slowly past again mumbling encouragement to each other. As I set off and go past them again, I just smile - they're incredulous.
The road is rolling hills up and around each protusion of the land into the sea, up and down the cliffs. Fun cycling, never too hard, with great downhills. I pass several cyclists heading the other way, each nodding, grinning, or one guy, loaded up with gear, punching the air and shouting.
I pass through Heda and Toi, autumn festivals starting up, drums and flutes sounding out. I stop for lunch in Toi at a Beatles themed cafe. Really nice cozy interior, so strange to find in Japan. The woman serving me is nice and offers the standard compliments about my Japanese. She's a BIG-Beatles fan, she tells me, so I mention I'm from Liverpool - 'wonderful' she exclaims.
After Toi I head inland to make a loop and head back to Numazu. The road climbs. I'd spent lunch considering whether or not to attempt the Nishiizu skyline, a road that heads straight over all the biggest mountains in the area. Climbing repeatedly to just under 1000 metres. I felt pretty good all morning so when the turn comes I laugh heartily to myself for being an idiot and take it. The cars stop, replaced by hordes of motor-cyclists in groups tearing up these hills, some giving me a thumbs up, most not. The ones coming the other way look concerned at this fool up on his pedals puffing up the slopes at little more than walking pace. The road climbs through the shade of trees, I'm grateful, the sun is the hottest it's been in a long time. The climb is about ten kilometres and probably the steepest I've ever come across. I take it slow, and all the motor-cyclists stopped for a breather or a swig of water observe is a calm guy breathing slowly, going past. Because it's so steep I find that when it becomes less steep I quickly speed up and go faster on the uphills than I would normally do on the flats. At one of the pull-off points is a guy sitting in a deck-chair playing his accordion. It's not the first time I've come across this isolated musicianship. It reminds me of a trumpeter I came across in a quieter spot of the forest park near Hamamatsu. As I near the tops of the mountains and the trees thin out I can see the whole of Izu beneath me, all hills and forest, valleys and cliffs. Incredible. Hitting the crest I zip up my jersey for the cool descents in shadow. I quickly and easily descend, scaring some of the motor boys when I pass them. I stop at a cafe built for the tourists who come up and get the photo. Ice-cream. One or two stare wide-eyed when they see my bike.
Leaving the people behind I drop quickly down to the valley-floor to Shuzenji, where the option to get on a train is ignored. There's a beautiful temple complex, also filled with people. From here I get lost several times trying to find my way back to Numazu. Finding I can't take the road I need, as it's only for motorised vehicles - despite the fact that they're jammed all the way, crawling along at 10mph. The sun's going down and the clouds light up in orange and pink. I stop to ask several gas-stations who all direct me to a different place - not believing that I could make it the 10km to Numazu on a 'bicycle'. In the end, it's too dark; I give up and let them direct me to the small train line which takes me to Mishima where I can take the train home. On the train, I drift off which helps the two and half hours home pass nicely.
