Dap - Luanda style
Arriving in Luanda from Johannesburg we circled the city. From the plane you can see the bay, the docks and the gleaming centre. The airport seemed new and shiny. We were raced through immigration without incident. It was warm but not hot, with a pleasant breeze.
The first night we were due to head out for dinner with Mariana's friends. The phone rang and we went outside for our ride - saying another round of greetings to the nightguard. Natacha skipped to greet us with hugs, then a shrug of the shoulders, 'Olguita got pulled over by a cop for making a wrong turn, they're over there.' Traffic in Luanda is a problem. There's too much of it and the infrastructure of roads is poor and in constant flux as developers change one junction after another before going back and re-thinking the first one. There are also very few signs, which gives the traffic police - of which there are plenty - easy pickings. We got in, more happy greetings and hugs, then we were told to follow. The traffic cop took us to his superior and handed him Olgita's license.
'Good evening ladies'
There followed an exchange of more greetings and smiles, before business began.
'You know officer, it's unbelievable, I've had such a bad day - my asshole boyfriend walked out on me this morning and since then it's just been one thing after another ... I mean men are such bastards! Of course not you officer, no you seem like a really considerate kind of guy'
'Well, that's terrible - no ok, let's see if we can make your day a little better huh?, I'm sure all this was just a silly mistake...'
After a scrabble for notes in the dark of the backseat and a 'thank you officer - you have a good night' we were on our way. The car erupts, 'Asshole!' before Natacha laughs, 'Welcome to Angola Jonathan!'*
* I found out later that this practice was so common it had it's own local slang term - 'pentear' or to get your hair brushed... didn't make much sense to me until Mariana reminded of her nieces reaction to getting their hair - afro hair - brushed. Ouch.
The first night we were due to head out for dinner with Mariana's friends. The phone rang and we went outside for our ride - saying another round of greetings to the nightguard. Natacha skipped to greet us with hugs, then a shrug of the shoulders, 'Olguita got pulled over by a cop for making a wrong turn, they're over there.' Traffic in Luanda is a problem. There's too much of it and the infrastructure of roads is poor and in constant flux as developers change one junction after another before going back and re-thinking the first one. There are also very few signs, which gives the traffic police - of which there are plenty - easy pickings. We got in, more happy greetings and hugs, then we were told to follow. The traffic cop took us to his superior and handed him Olgita's license.
'Good evening ladies'
There followed an exchange of more greetings and smiles, before business began.
'You know officer, it's unbelievable, I've had such a bad day - my asshole boyfriend walked out on me this morning and since then it's just been one thing after another ... I mean men are such bastards! Of course not you officer, no you seem like a really considerate kind of guy'
'Well, that's terrible - no ok, let's see if we can make your day a little better huh?, I'm sure all this was just a silly mistake...'
After a scrabble for notes in the dark of the backseat and a 'thank you officer - you have a good night' we were on our way. The car erupts, 'Asshole!' before Natacha laughs, 'Welcome to Angola Jonathan!'*
* I found out later that this practice was so common it had it's own local slang term - 'pentear' or to get your hair brushed... didn't make much sense to me until Mariana reminded of her nieces reaction to getting their hair - afro hair - brushed. Ouch.
posted by Jyon-sensei at 5:37 am
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